I am using for the font Edwardian Script ITC. With the Horizontal Type Tool (T) add a text. I am using 2560x1680 with 300 DPI (very important) with a black background. Open Photoshop and create a new document.
The whole process is quite simple, it's less than 10 steps and won't take you more than 30 minutes.
3d vintage scene how to#
So in this tutorial, I will show you how to create a super cool and very easy effect using Photoshop and the Repoussé tool.
Then I knew the effect I wanted to know how to create in Photoshop. I got some ideas and also found this amazing image from Alex Beltechi on Dribbble called Twisting in the Wind. I am still addicted to the Handy Book of Artistic Printing, it's a must-have book for some old style print references. As usual I went through some books and Web sites to find some inspiration. So why not double it?ġ2:33 Inserting a cute little layout graphic with a radial fill to look like a shimmer.ġ4:49 An unexpected 3D version of the map, using the map elevation.ġ6:50 Yadda yadda, closing chatter.Sunday is the day to play with Photoshop and try some new ideas. Ah, glorious blend modes.Ĥ:44 Playing around with adding color into the hillshade color schemes.Ħ:58 Giving the neatline polygon a gradient stroke to simulate a shadow.Ĩ:17 Ah the slope raster function! That’s a nice one for next-level hillshading.ĩ:04 A couple nice crisp hillshades from the raster functions.ġ0:33 Adding bits of color into the otherwise-grayscale hillshades.ġ1:50 I like that neatline shadow/highlight effect. –time to just play around with stacking up blended hillshade layers–ģ:22 Cranking out several hillshade layers, each with a bit different sun angle.Ĥ:15 Blurring the hillshade layers with the Focal Statistics raster function.Ĥ:40 Blend modes (predominantly the Soft Light blend).
3d vintage scene license#
If you don’t have a license you can do 99% of this with the hillshade tool found in Raster Functions.Ģ:07 Creating a new layout in the good old topo quad dimensions of 22×27 inches.Ģ:36 Inserting my map frame and fine-tuning its position in the layout.ģ:08 Getting rid of that default 1 pixel black border around the map frame. … Part 3: HillshadeĠ:55 I’ll use the hillshade from Spatial Analyst, or 3D Analyst, licenses because they can cast long shadows. This 3D-ification was done entirely in ArcGIS Pro, and I’m just dying to show you how! … Part 1: GeoreferencingĠ:00 Little bit of map nerd history about these things.Ģ:22 A bit of appreciation for maps that spill out over the neatline.ģ:12 How to pin an image to true geographic coordinates (georeferencing)Ĥ:00 Selecting a similar projection to the topo quad.ĥ:20 Pinning some georeference control points.Ħ:11 How to change the coordinate format at the bottom of a map view.ħ:54 AOk hang on, maybe just try the Living Atlas USGS Historical Topographic Map Explorer! … Part 2: Elevation DataĠ:00 Skip this re-cap and just dive right in.Ġ:23 How to use Map Notes to draw quick and convenient new features.Ġ:58 Drawing in a polygon of the paper extent, and the map extent.Ģ:22 How to add elevation data from anywhere in the world, at pretty much any scale, from Living Atlas.Ģ:46 Warren Davison showed me how to steal portions of this Living Atlas elevation!Ĥ:10 How to cookie-cut out a portion of the elevation image to match the map area.Ĥ:58 Using Raster Calculator (Image Analyst license) to add dead pixels outside the map, but inside the paper, to give shadows a place to fall.Ħ:52 Wordy summary with somewhat awkward and perplexing eyebrow raising. A treasured relic of generations past gets new life as an object of joy. What’s going on here?! This is one of those things where you take an achingly beautiful vintage topo or geology map and then brew some modern 3D hillshade into it to make it jump off that charmingly yellowed page and find a place right in your geographer’s heart.
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